Seeped in family history and enviably located on the Sand River in Sabi Sand Reserve, Jonathan and Sophie share their experiences at another of South Africa’s award-winning safari lodges – famous Londolozi.
It’s rare that we arrive at a lodge and immediately have a hunch that the place is going to tick all the boxes on our secret checklist. But at Varty Camp, this is exactly what happens. After a highly professional and very friendly welcome by Jason, we’re shown to our suite on the banks of the Sand River. Our view is as exquisite as the suite itself, with all the amenities you could reasonably require, along with a stunning plunge pool on the deck below.
Everything here is meticulously managed – immaculately dressed staff glide from lounge to dining deck whispering into their radios. Pause for a moment and a manager will introduce himself, or a barman offer you a drink (all inclusive).
You’ll never have a dull moment at Varty – there’s the daily yoga session at 12, a gym, a spa, a large communal pool, an inviting library, a TV-room where you can watch the famous Londolozi leopard documentaries, even a so-called Creative Centre where you can spend your spare time taking photographic lessons and print your leopard kill photos straight onto canvas. Londolozi take their photographic safaris seriously. But wait, don’t forget why you’re actually here – to go on game-drives!
At Londolozi you’ll meet some of the top guides in the country, as well as some of the most passionate ones. Our guide James manages to capture our attention from the moment we get into the car to the time we leave. He introduces us to our tracker, Mike, explains his role, and explains his own strategy for our afternoon game drive. Whether we stop for an impala or an elephant, each sighting warrants an introduction, some interesting facts and interpretation. And the vehicle is always positioned perfectly, taking lighting into consideration for photographs, and making sure we’re in the shade from the blazing sun. It’s a treat to have a guide who takes pride in his work and doesn’t just consider himself a driver.
We watch a lone lioness optimistically stalk three large buffalo as the sun sets. The buff successfully turn the tables and the lioness dashes off sheepishly. But it’s another great interaction, all too common at Londolozi.
“That’s my daughter, she’s one of the chefs here at Varty!” Margaret, our butler, proudly exclaims as she takes our soup orders for dinner after her daughter, Liveness, has just introduced tonight’s boma dinner menu. And this brief moment says it all about the staff and the overall ethos at Londolozi: everyone takes pride in their work and it’s all about family. You get the feeling that the staff here are empowered and there’s a great sense of unity. The Varty family themselves have been an integral part of Londolozi since 1926 and even the vineyards on the wine list are purely family-run South African estates. We are impressed.
For our morning game drive, we head out into the bush and immediately come across fresh leopard tracks. Mike jumps off the tracker seat and disappears into a block of quite thick vegetation to look for it, while we continue driving around, eventually meeting Mike on the other side. This leopard remains elusive, but shortly afterwards we come across a beautiful male briefly stalking a herd of impala ahead before lying down in the shade of an acacia tree. It’s 9 o’clock and very hot already, and it becomes obvious that the leopard is not going to make a move any time soon, so we carry on down to the river, where we come across a breeding herd of 30 elephants coming down to drink and play. We watch them for a long time, their excitement as they smell the water, their playfulness and their bonding. You can never tire of observing these majestic animals. To top it all, on our way back to the lodge we have a very special sighting of two young male giraffes sparring, tossing their necks against each other.
There are five lodges to choose from at Londolozi – they share a similar view, but each lodge has a unique feel. Pioneer and Granite Suites are both very well suited to honeymoon couples having only three suites each. At Founders and Tree Camp emphasis is on slightly smaller camps than Varty, the family-orientated lodge, where children are welcome. Between them, they cater for all tastes.
After a decadent breakfast (with the most tasty croissants we’ve ever had in the bush!), it’s time to say goodbye to this magnificent place. Londolozi prides itself on its innovative, forward-thinking philosophy and is leading the way in introducing eco-technology to the top-end safari market. All in all it’s a slick operation and you’re unlikely to be disappointed with your stay here.