Sandwiched between Moremi and Chobe National Parks in northern Botswana, the Khwai concession boasts some of the most dense concentrations of wildlife anywhere. Among the smattering of lodges and camps here, Machaba stands out as a luxurious but understated tented camp. Jonathan and Sophie investigate.
Mention the word Khwai to any wildlife enthusiast and their eyes will light up and in all likelihood a story will ensue involving a close encounter with a lion, leopard, wild dog or all three. Khwai is infamous, and for good reason, and we were especially excited about our visit here.
We weren’t disappointed. Machaba is located on the river Khwai, looking directly into Moremi, and its ten tented suites are strung along with generous gaps in between, with a modest swimming pool at the far end. The tents have all the comforts you need but don’t expect hair dryers: the camp is proud of its eco-credentials and hair dryers and solar power don’t mix.
Our game viewing during our stay was fantastic, expertly conducted by guide Moreri, who recognised us from a stay in the Delta some years ago. We saw two wild dog packs, including one on a red lechwe kill. The next day we stumbled across another pack hunting. The adrenlin was pumping as we sped alongside the frenzied dogs before watching with awe as half the pack of 16 tore into a kudu. Minutes later we heard the rest of the pack calling nearby, followed by the unmistakable groan of yet another victim.
“They’ve made another kill!” shouted Moreri as he threw the car in gear and we shot off through the bushes towards the sound of the frenzied dogs. Sure enough, the rest of the pack had brought down a second kudu. The dogs could hardly contain their excitement, some leaving the first kill to feed on the second, which was devoured in minutes. It was a stark illustration of the reality of predator-prey interactions. One minute a perfectly formed kudu is grazing peacefully on the lush grass; not ten minutes later the only trace of its existence is a small patch of sticky-red flattened grass.
While the potential game viewing at Khwai is second to none, there are a number of lodges and campsites on the concession, with subsequent lack of control of vehicle numbers at sightings. Depending on the time of year it can therefore get quite crowded, although we had no problems with this during our stay. Meanwhile, Machaba vehicles can drive off road, and you can request a night drive with your guide in addition to the usual morning and afternoon drives. Short walks can sometimes also be arranged.
With a capacity of 24, Machaba is not a particularly small camp but the relaxed atmosphere and easy-going staff make it feel more intimate, and communal dining at dinner allows guests to interact and share stories. Breakfast and brunch are taken at individual tables, allowing guests some privacy and we found this model worked very well. (Slow) wi-fi by satellite is available under a tree within the camp and this ensures that phones and tablets don’t intrude on the beauty of the bush.
Machaba is also one of the few lodges that allow children under six (although it’s rare that there will be any) and two of the ten tents are family tents that can sleep up to 6 people each.
Overall, Machaba is a very efficiently run camp and camp managers Elcke and Shaun do a fantastic job in making guests feel at ease. We certainly recommend this camp.